Iceland Stoic Beauty
Iceland, Reykjavik
However long you go away for, take it from me it is seldom enough time. My trip to Iceland was originally a mistake and I can thank my geography knowledge for that. When flying home from Ireland I was under the impression that Iceland was dead center between Ireland and New York giving for a nice extended layover. That was incorrect. In reality, Iceland is much closer to Ireland than Iceland is to New York. A 3-hour flight from Ireland to Iceland and another 6-hour flight from Iceland to Newark. Nevertheless, without that mistake, I would have never discovered how unique a country Iceland is. They have been able to maintain a pristine country. Whose people couldn’t be prouder of their ancestry and what they have been able to protect for as long as they have.
I would like to start with the most common misnomer that intrigued me and that I felt obliged to confirm while I was there. Distant and not-so-distant ancestry. I was under the impression as I am sure a lot of ignorant foreigners that the dating and by default marriage pools in Iceland are extremely selective because of their relatively isolationist ancestry. I was politely corrected however by a tour guide of ours when I asked him about this. “Is it true that when dating there is a concern about being with someone you are closely related to?” I asked. He responds, “No because of 2 reasons. There is an Islendingabok database that contains a detailed genealogical database on most of our population. 2 if you are really that closely related you probably already know about them from family events.” Despite Iceland's checkered Viking and Nordic past they have no formal military and rely on NATO and a Coast Guard for any protection they might need.
We flew Iceland Air from Dublin to Keflavik and while not close to our hotel the hour's drive from Keflavik International Airport was a great introduction and a way to get our bearings. We stayed at the beautiful Apotek Hotel. Seemingly not far from anything this hotel provided us with a location where we could walk and see everything we wished to see in the short time we were there. For anyone planning a visit, I would recommend going in warmer weather. Growing up in New Jersey I thought I knew cold being close to the water. This was an entirely different scale. Especially in January. Mixed with the least amount of sunlight I have ever experienced it left us slightly off rhythm and retiring early back to the hotel just to be confused again looking at the clock and having several more hours before dinner was even a consideration.
Somehow and for some reason a large majority of the countries we get to travel to make it a point to ride horses. I haven’t mentioned this much and will have to include an article about it at some later point. To quickly summarize why it's something we do despite having a lack of formal horse-related training. I stand by my opinion that it is one of the most beautiful ways to see and experience a particular town or countryside. To be outside in nature and to experience it without the growl of an engine is a humbling experience. Rounding back to my original point. My girlfriend and I showed up to this Range early in the morning to saddle up our horses and ride out to the ridge to watch the sunrise. A note about the horses we rode which makes them unique compared to other more common breeds I have ridden is for starters they have long curly hair. Second and what I found the most interesting is that if a horse leaves Iceland it will never be allowed back to the country. The reasoning behind this is very practical of fairness. Centuries of isolation with this particular breed of disease from foreign horses would wreak havoc and to prevent this it kept simple. If you are a horse and leave you can't come back. Riding this horse in close to freezing temperatures, bundled up, riding across rock and snow to overlook a barren tundra and watch the sunrise is as close to tranquility as I have ever gotten.
As mentioned before the hotel where we stayed was walking distance from most things we wanted to see. Including the Hallgrimskirkja an evangelical-luthern church. Positioned in the center of Reykjavik and only about 40 years old its towering 75 meter tall tower and massive cathedral is stunning. The trip to the church is uphill from where we stayed. Hardly arduous with clothing stores, Bakeries, and restaurants along the picturesque Rainbow Road organized by the city of Reykjavík in cooperation with Reykjavík Pride in a week-long festival. Once at the top facing a statue of Leif Erikson there are even more places to eat before continuing our trip. We chose ROK because of the view of the front of the church from our seats inside.
A 15-minute walk to the shore from Hallgrimskirkja is Harpa Reykjavik Concert Hall. Winning awards for contemporary architecture and named best concert house of the new Millennium by Gramophone Magazine I was breath taken walking into this space for the first time. So much so that regardless of what was being performed there I had to experience a show. Despite the show being heinous it did not take away one bit from the venue. From the views in the back overlooking the water, the grand stairs, and even the fishing net-like frame added to the exterior. I will encourage anyone who can find the time to go to do so.
I’d be remiss if I didn't mention 2 of my favorite things we managed to squeak in during our brief stint. First is the Sky Lagoon. Looking over a beautiful inlet the Sky Lagoon is the lesser-known but in my opinion the more beautiful competitor to the Blue Lagoon. Once there and changed into your swimwear you are welcomed to a geothermal tub that overlooks and blends seamlessly to the inlet. We grabbed drinks, enjoyed the view, and then left. Lastly would be the Northern Lights tour. An undoubtful must-see. As I know I have mentioned before, a tour is the best way to see the lights. We decided on a small tour group because you get to socialize and talk with everyone at some point or another, and you also have a lower chance of being left out and forgotten about to properly experience what you paid for. Wool blankets, Hot cocoa, and cinnamon buns in hand we drove out to nowhere. Avoiding light pollution and charmed by our guide we stayed out until 1 in the morning admiring the clear sky and its dancing colors.
3 days is not enough time to spend anywhere in my opinion. If done correctly you can experience enough highlights to give you a teaser trailer. Just enough to get you excited for the inevitable release of the full movie. From history to the incredible architecture, the experiences you can have in such a short stay. Imagine what a 2-week trip or even a month is incalculable. Just like any movie with a compelling trailer I just can’t wait.
